Tuesday, 21 May 2013

Pet Insurance: How Much Are Our Furry Friends Worth?

An in-depth look at the cost of pet insurance in Canada and the value offered. Is it really worth getting or can you live without it?


Sorry that's its been so long since I've posted anything. I just started a new job that is taking up a lot of my time. I also pride myself on writing only well-researched and thought-out articles, meaning it takes me a while to write them. If you ever have any requests let me know and I will do my best! The topic of this post was something a couple of people have mentioned to me - pet insurance. They wanted to know how much it costs and whether it is really worth it or not.

Pet Insurance: Where To Start

To start off with, insurance is just that - protection from accidents, not coverage of your pet's day-to-day expenses. Additionally, expected costs such as shots, checkups, neutering, among many other expenses, are paid out-of-pocket simply to qualify for insurance.

With that out of the way, pet insurance normally seems to be limited to either dogs or cats. Birds, rabbits, muskrats, and baby elephants need not apply. For animals such as horses there are certainly ways to get insurance for them, however for the scope of this post we'll just focus on regular household pets that qualify for regular pet insurance - dogs and cats.

Cats are generally cheaper to insure than dogs. Dogs, evidently, are more worthwhile, at least in the eyes of the insurance industry. I'm not sure the exact rational behind this - perhaps typically dogs are more prone to illnesses than cats, a little like how women drivers are cheaper to insure than men. Which is not to say men are dogs. Well, some aren't anyway.

All the companies I researched had several plans to choose from so you could decide the coverage you want and the price you're willing to pay. Most plans for cats range from $10 a month to $50 a month. For dogs the plans range from $10 a month to $110. Most of these plans are very similar to each other so that brings up the question: which plan is right for me? The thing you need to consider when shopping around for pet insurance is that you're thinking long-term. Pre-existing conditions won't be covered under a new plan so it's a better idea to start your coverage from a young age. Also, as pets get older it is harder to insure them. If you buy into a package when they're a puppy or kitten your coverage won't change. 


Methodology

For this post I chose to look at the four major pet insurance companies in Canada: PC Pet Insurance, PetSecure, Pet Care, and Trupanion. I looked at what plans they have, the coverage they offer and the associated costs.

When getting the quotes I include in this post I used a 3 year old male Irish terrier named Connor as my sample dog. In fact, Connor does exist and was at one time this young. And in truth, given his behaviour, he still may be, despite the calendar indicating he's 12. My sample cat was my 5 year old male of unknown breed named Hershey. Both live in Kitchener. The premiums listed are monthly amounts.

PC Pet Insurance

PC offers four different plans for both cats and dogs: accident; value; choice; and ultra. The accident is the base plan offered and covers accidents only to a maximum of $1500 per year. The value plan covers $1500 per illness per year and $1500 per accident per year. The choice plans also covers accidents and illnesses but up to $2500 per accident/ illness per year. The same goes for the ultra plan which covers up to $5000 per accident/illness per year. Below is a break down of the costs for these plans.


Type Accident Value Choice Ultra
Dog 10.95 23.21 38.01 47.54
Cat 9.95 18.20 26.88 34.57
*If you collect PC points you'll earn more by signing up for insurance coverage with them

Regardless of which plan you choose all of these plans come with the same "free extras". They are:
  • $100 towards the cost of cremation or burial through loss of life to a covered accident/ illness. 
  • Emergency kennel fess if your pet is hospitalized more than 2 days, $25 a day, up to a maximum of $500. 
  • Up to $1000 towards cancelled accomodation and travel expenses due to a pet's illness/ accident. 
  • $300 towards advertising and reward for a missing pet.
Reading through the fine print for these plans I learned some interesting things. First of all, while premiums do not increase as your pet ages, the deductible for an illness claim does. For dogs it starts at $100 then goes up to a maximum of $500 for dogs over 10. For cats it also starts at $100 but only reaches a maximum of $250 for cats over 10. Dog owners, evidently, are used to their animals being more of a pain. All accidents have a $100 deductible. Also there is no specific description of what illnesses are covered. Essentially it seems as though your pet has to be diagnosed and then you find out if you're covered. This seems to be a fairly major flaw in most of the plans covered here. A big FYI here is that genetic problems associated with a particular breed are rarely covered.

Petsecure

Like PC, Petsecure offers 4 different plans for both cats and dogs: Secure 1, 2 , 3, and 4. Secure 1 covers $1000 per illness and accident per year, as well as $200 towards dental coverage per year. The Secure 2 gives $2500 per illness and accident per year and $300 of dental coverage a year. The Secure 3 offers $5000 coverage per accident and illness per year and $400 of dental coverage. The Secure 4 has unlimited coverage of illnesses and accidents and $600 of dental coverage a year. Each of these plans also comes with $350 per year in alternative therapy coverage. Similarly to PC there are also additional member benefits included with every plan:
  • $1000 towards boarding kennel fees if you are hospitalized
  • $1000 holiday cancellation
  • $1000 for lost pet advertising
  • $1000 for cremation or burial costs
  • $50 in memoriam donation in the name of your deceased pet
Type Secure 1 Secure 2 Secure 3 Secure 4
Dog 33.81 44.88 60.97 92.11
Cat 19.44 25.23 33.23 48.68

Unlike other plans Petsecure 4 includes coverage of some preventative care costs. Under these plans 80% of your costs are covered after a deductible. For dogs the deductible ranges from $100 to $500. For cats the deductible ranges from $100 to $300. These deductibles are comparable to PC Pet Insurance.

Trupanion

Unlike the other pet insurance companies Trupanion has only one plan that covers 90% of actual veterinary costs with no dollar limits. Cost is determined by your pet's breed, age, gender, and your geographic area. With a $500 deductible coverage for my dog Connor would cost $49.15 a month. With the same $500 deductible coverage for my cat Hershey would cost $28.10 a month. This 90% coverage is also minus exam fees and an optional deductible. My guess would be that if you choose to have a deductible your monthly premium goes up.

Pet Care

Pet Care offers the widest range of plans of the companies studied. They have the following plans: QuickCare for Indoor Cats, QuickCare First (Young cats and dogs), QuickCare Senior (Senior cats and dogs), MasterCare (Pure-bred cats and dogs), QuickCare Plus (Dogs), MasterCare 80% (Cats and dogs), TenantCare (Cats and dogs), and EmergencyCare (Cats and dogs). Whew.

QuickCare for Indoor Cats gives about $2000 in accident and illness coverage for specific accidents and illnesses. 
QuickCare First gives $500 in accident coverage and $1000 in illness coverage. 
QuickCare Senior gives $2000 in illness coverage and $500-$2000 in illness coverage for specific illnesses. 
MasterCare has three different levels that gives increasing amounts of coverage. It ranges from $2000 to $6000 in accident coverage and $2500 to $6500 in illness coverage. There is a lifetime limit on illness coverage.
QuickCare Plus for dogs gives $500 to $2000 in accident coverage depending on the specific accident. $2000 a year is given in illness coverage with a lifetime cap of $12000.
MasterCare 80% has the same coverage amounts as MasterCare, but it only covers 80% of total costs.
TenantCare gives $500 in illness benefits and $1000 in accident coverage.
EmergencyCare gives $3000 in emergency treatments if the pet is lost. There is a $50 deductible and this costs $19.44 yearly. Choosing a plan may be more complicated than choosing a pet.


Plan Dog Cat
MasterCare Premiere 90% 105.45 51.70
MasterCare Premiere 80% 99.35 49.15
MasterCare Plus 90% 89.95 49.85
MasterCare Plus 80% 74.75 39.60
MasterCare 90% 69.75 34.35
MasterCare Complete 68.95 44.95
MasterCare 80% 52.95 27.35
QuickCare Optimum 38.15 31.25
QuickCare Plus 34.95 N/A
Tenant Care 24.50 18.50
QuickCare First 19.35 N/A
QuickCare Senior 36.25 24.25
QuickCare Indoor Cats N/A 14.50

Each of their plans comes with very specific coverage for different types of illnesses and accidents. If you're interested I would suggest reading through them yourself. 

Comparison

These four companies that I've looked at are the major players in the pet insurance business in Canada. They are all competing with each other so they need to do something that sets them apart. PC offers the lowest prices for coverage. Petsecure offers low prices and lots of coverage. Trupanion offers one simple plan with lots of coverage for a consistent price. Pet Care offers a lot of different plans in order to customize your coverage. 

Having looked at all of these companies I believe that my first choice would be Petsecure. They offered the combination of low insurance premiums with good coverage. Pet medical expenses can be costly so I would feel more comfortable personally having greater coverage there. The included dental coverage is also a decided plus. Not to mention the extra features like coverage for trip cancellation and cremation costs. My second choice would be Trupanion because they have a great combination of coverage and cost. They also cover 90% where other companies only cover 80%. PC would be my third choice because of their low prices and decent coverage. I don't think I would chose Pet Care simply because I'd rather play with my pet than spend the rest of my life trying to figure out their plans for pet insurance. They offer too many different plans and I would worry that whatever illness or accident I happen to claim would not be covered simply because I didn't choose the right plan. 

It's hard to get exact numbers on the cost of accidents and illnesses for pets. But from my experience I can tell you that a basic emergency visit to the animal hospital will cost you about $1000. Last year Hershey was hit by a car and we had to take him to the animal hospital. He spent the night there and we found out he had only chipped a tooth and bitten his tongue. This cost us $1000 to find out - I can only imagine what the costs would have been if there had actually been something wrong with him. I've heard stories of people with dogs that require special treatments for cancer that range in the thousands of dollars a year. 

The important thing to ask yourself is: how much can I afford on my own? For me it was $1000. Anything more than that would have been too much. So I wouldn't get a basic plan covering my pet only up to $1000 because I would be comfortable doing that on my own. 

Insure Your Pet Yourself

If don't want to pay premiums to an insurance company for coverage, consider paying them to yourself. If you set aside $25 a month for 17 years, which is the average lifespan of a cat, you would have $4500. For your dog, setting aside $50 a month for 12 years would net you $7200. Additionally, you'll accrue interest on the money while you're at it. Think of that like an emergency fund for your pet, that you can use if you need to. Now you're banking on the fact that your pet won't need thousands of dollars of expensive medical treatments, but if they don't you're set. Consider this as an alternative to costly pet insurance, but remember you have to be responsible and set aside enough money.

There's an additional advantage to this. Spunky may qualify for coverage for a medical condition, but if it's just one of many medical conditions he's likely to encounter at the end of his life, you may decide that it would be better for him to pass on to the next world. If you have insurance, you have sunk all that money into that pet and you can't get it back. But if you save for yourself, then Spunky 2 can be the lucky recipient of $7200+ of personal pet insurance right off the bat.

Conclusion

Having looked at all the different plans I would definitely go with PetSecure if I had to get pet insurance. I like the amount of coverage they give and the premiums they charge. I also like that they include dental coverage, something no other company offered. I would go with either the Secure 2 or 3 because I want more than $1000 worth of coverage as I previously discussed. 

However, personally, the only reason I would decide to get pet insurance is if I had only one pet that I loved a lot. For people with a beloved animal as their constant companion, I can see this being a very appealing option. While most of the companies offered a multi-pet discount it starts to get costly to pay multiple premiums every month. In that case I would set aside an amount every month for emergency pet care costs.

Ultimately you have to look at your own situation and figure out what your goals are. If you love your pets more than anything else in this world and you're willing to stop at nothing to help them out, then you should get the most comprehensive insurance plan out there. If you have a pet and simply want some coverage in case of accidents or illness you should get a low-cost plan with moderate coverage. Think about what you have, what you want and what you're comfortable spending and I know you'll figure out the right answer.

Tuesday, 23 April 2013

Budgeting With A Variable Income

A comprehensive guide to budgeting when you have a variable income. Strategies are given to make a budget that works for different scenarios.



A lot of people have been asking me how to budget when you have a variable income. It's easier to budget when you know exactly how much money you make every month and it doesn't change. However what do you do when your income fluctuates?

I have never really ever had a job with a fixed salary. I've worked hourly, part-time, commission, and seasonal. As a result I've become very good about budgeting with a variable income. So believe me it is possible to have a working budget even though your income changes a lot. 


There is a general principle that I work with and that is that some months I'm going to earn more than others and others I'm going to earn less. I therefore need different budgets to use as my circumstances change. I have 3 different budgets, A, B, and C. The A budget is for when I'm making my average income. The B budget is for when I'm making more money than usual. The C budget is for when I'm making less money than usual.


Fixed Expenses


Several things aren't going to change with any of your budgets, these are your fixed expenses. I've already talked about them here in my post on basic budgeting. Basically your rent isn't going to change every month no matter how much you're making. Make a list of all your fixed expenses and put it into each of your budgets.


For me these are my fixed expenses (numbers are made up).

Category Amount
Rent 950.00
Hydro 50.00
Internet 50.00
Phones 100.00
Car Loan 350.00
Insurance 150.00


While I could change my internet and phone plan in case of an emergency, I'm not going to change them month-to-month, therefore they're a fixed expense for the purpose of this budget.

Income


Before you can fill out your variable expenses you need to know how much money you're making. But that's the problem with a variable income isn't it? Assume for budget A, the one with your average income that your average income is about 90% of what you generally make. Say one paycheque I make $5000, the next $4900, and the next $4800. I would say that $4900 is my average income, but I would only budget on 90% of that. That would be $4410, but to make things simple in my sample budget I say that $4500 is my average income. For my B budget which is where I make more than usual, I estimated I made 20% more than usual, so $5400. For my C budget which is where I make less than usual, I assumed I made 20% less than usual, so $3600. I like the idea of sticking with +/- 20% for my B and C budgets because I find them to be relatively accurate percentages from my experience. That's not to say that every month I make less than usual, I only make 20% less. I could only make 10% less or I could make 50% less. The same goes with the months I make more. This will be be explained further down.


I also find it helpful to use last month's income to calculate how much I have for this month. This way I know at the beginning of the month how much I have to spend and I don't go overboard. So if I made $5400 last month, I would use sample budget B this month.


Sample Budget

Category A B C
Rent 900.00 950.00 950.00
Hydro 50.00 50.00 50.00
Internet 50.00 50.00 50.00
Phones 100.00 100.00 100.00
Car Loan 350.00 350.00 350.00
Insurance 150.00 150.00 150.00
Groceries 450.00 500.00 400.00
Household Supplies 200.00 250.00 150.00
Gas 160.00 170.00 140.00
Car Maintenance 50.00 130.00 50.00
Vacation 200.00 250.00 100.00
Family/ Gifts 100.00 150.00 90.00
Discretionary Fund 600.00 700.00 400.00
Emergency Fund 200.00 200.00 100.00
Retirements Savings 400.00 500.00 200.00
House Savings 250.00 550.00 200.00
Medical 150.00 150.00 100.00
Cool Stuff 140.00 200.00 20.00
TOTAL 4500.00 5400.00 3600.00


Variable Expenses

I've told you to fill in your variable expenses last because you can't fill them out until you know your monthly income. Then it's just a matter of making the numbers work. Add money into every category until your budget balances. You know what you usually spend in each category, so that's a good starting point. My best advice is just to play around with it until you get the budget balanced.


Curveball Account


You might have been wondering from earlier, what happens if you don't make the perfect 20% more or less than average each month? How do you stick to a budget then? The answer is that you keep surplus money in your account, where it becomes part of the curveball account. The curveball account covers you when you need to make up any deficit in your budget. So say I made $4650 last month, I would use sample budget A. But I would have $150 extra. Rather than spending that I would keep it in my account and let it accumulate. This way if the next month I only made $3450, I would use that $150 to make up the difference needed for sample budget C. By also saying that your average income is 90% of what it typically is, you'll allow yourself to build that curveball account monthly.


You might want to set an amount that you will let your curveball account reach. That way  you always know you have that to use, but you can stop saving once it reaches that threshold. It's important to note that the curveball account is different from your emergency fund because you're using it for monthly expenses on a regular basis.


Two Income Household


The principles I have explained here can be applied to your situation regardless of how your household income works. If two of you contribute to the expenses and you both have variable income, you figure out your individual average income. Then you add them together and create your budgets. If one person in your household has a variable income and the other a fixed income, you use the fixed income as a fixed base. Then add the information for the variable income to that. 


Good Luck!


To all of you out there with variable incomes, I hope this helps you make a budget that works for you. The advice I've given here is based on my own experiences and situation, but it might work for you too. If it doesn't, make you own budget. I like the A,B, and C budget approach, but you might have A-Z budgets. Find whatever works for you and stick to it. Trust me you'll feel a huge sense of relief when you don't have to worry about money every time something changes with your work schedule/ situation. 

Friday, 5 April 2013

Discount Clothing at Talize

A short look at some of the great reasons to update your closet on the cheap by shopping at Talize.


I'm sure many of you are staring at your wardrobe thinking that it's time for an update. Spring cleaning and nicer weather will definitely have that effect on people. However, if you find that your budget doesn't have that much room it in, don't worry. Instead shop used at Talize.

If you haven't heard of Talize before it's a discount store similar to Value Village. They sell used and new clothing, housewares, games, books, and more. 

I personally really like shopping at Talize because I find they have great selection. Two years ago I got a Banana Republic winter coat there for $8.00. That coat has served me well and I love the price I paid for it. So let me try and sell you on the benefits of shopping at this store.

Rewards Program

Unlike many second-hand stores, Talize offers a customer loyalty program. It's a simple rewards card that you can pick up in the store. When you spend $1 you get 20 points. 1000 points can be redeemed for $1 off your purchase. So spend $50.00, get $1 off. It's important to know that at some special events they run, points aren't accumulated.

Special Events

Most second-hand stores offer special events where they will sell certain items in the store at a discounted price. The most popular and the one I'm the biggest fan of, are the 50% off nights. However, I've noticed that every week Talize offers certain items in their store at 50% off. When I went in today there was a sign at the entrance saying 50% off items with yellow tags. I personally really love getting a discount on already discounted clothing, I don't think anyone will disagree with me about that one.



Donate and Save

When you make a donation to Talize, you get a coupon for a discount off your next purchase. Today I dropped off some clothing I didn't need anymore and got a coupon for $5.00 off my next purchase of $25.00 or more. I think this is a great way to build customer loyalty and get people to keep giving them their donations. It's also a great savings for us, the customer.


The Selection is Good

In order for these types of stores to do well they need to get new merchandise in frequently. This means that every time you go there is going to be something different. I've had great luck at Talize finding some amazing items. I already mentioned the coat, but some of my other memorable finds include a Star Trek costume for husband for $8.00 and a brand-new purple dress for myself (tags still on!) for $7.00. 


Environmentally Friendly

Shopping used is one of the best ways to be environmentally friendly. Think about it, if you're buying something that's already been made, you're recycling. While it's not single-handedly stopping the production of new clothing, it does remove you from the cycle. Why not get more use out of something rather just sending it to a landfill?

It's For Everyone

Some of you may have qualms about shopping used, but you don't have to. Everything is cleaned so you don't have to worry about dirt or bad smells. There is often nothing wrong with the clothing that's been donated. People donate their clothing for a variety of reasons including weight loss/ gain, downsizing, no longer wanting it, bad break-up (get rid of the ex's stuff they left behind). This is perfectly good clothing that will be of use to someone else, maybe you. 

If you're like me and can't wait to update your wardrobe but don't want to pay a fortune, I hope you'll check out Talize. Or if not Talize, any other second-hand, vintage, use, or consignment store. Almost every town has one and it's usually not the first place people think to shop. The reason I chose to single-out Talize today, is because I think they really stand out in terms of chain second-hand stores. I think they offer superior selection at the best prices.

My last point for selling you on shopping here is this great song by Macklemore and Ryan Lewis. It's silly, but explains why its awesome to shop used.

Thursday, 4 April 2013

Best Bargains for Personal Hygiene Items

A comprehensive look at the cost of purchasing average personal hygiene items at five different stores. The most cost-effective place to shop for these items is determined.

I'm crazy for finding the best deal as any of my friends and family will tell you. So when I'm doing the shopping for my family's personal hygiene items I wonder if I'm getting the best deal. I generally don't shop at the same store every time, it depends on what else I'm doing. If I have a lot of stuff to buy I usually make a specific trip to a big box store like Wal Mart because I think I'll be saving money. If I have a small amount of things to buy I pick them up when I do my regular grocery shopping. So this got me thinking, where is the cheapest place to buy these items? Am I actually saving money going to the big box store? Would I be better buying them at a more convenient store?

To answer this question I first looked online and wasn't satisfied. Many other blogs recommended shopping at the big box stores because you would definitely save money. However, no one actually used evidence to support their claims. As someone with an academic background, I can't believe something until it's been backed up with sound evidence. I decided that I needed to do my own study.

Method of Study

I chose five different stores to look at for this study: Wal Mart, Shoppers Drug Mart, Zehrs, Foodland, and No Frills. I felt these stores accurately reflected where most people shop for their personal hygiene items, at the big box store, drug store, or grocery store. These are also the stores that I frequent the most, so I was able to include research time into my regular shopping. 

The items I chose to look at were brand-name only because they were present at almost every store. Most of the stores I studied had their own store brand items, but these were not consistently sold at every store, so I omitted them from this study. I took a guess when choosing the brand, and tried to study several different brands of an item when possible. The categories of items I looked at are: facial tissue, toilet paper, diapers, hand soap, shampoo, pads, tampons, deodorant, and body soap. 

Here is the chart I compiled:

STORE
ITEM
No Frills
Zehrs
Foodland
Wal Mart
Shoppers Drug Mart
Kleenex 6 pack
7.49
 8.19
8.99
6.98
 N/A
Kleenex 3 pack, 2 ply
 5.99
7.29
 N/A
6.27
9.99
Charmin Basic, 12 rolls, 1 ply
8.99
 N/A
 N/A
 N/A
 N/A
Charmin Ultra Strong, 12 rolls, 2 ply
 N/A
10.99
 N/A
 9.48
 N/A
Cashmere double, 12 rolls, 2 ply
 N/A
10.99
12.99
9.88
 N/A
Cotonelle 12 double roll
 5.77
 10.99
 N/A
9.88
10.49
Pampers Swaddlers 100 packs
29.99
29.97
 N/A
24.96
 N/A
Pampers Cruisers 2, 52 pack
 N/A
 N/A
20.99
 N/A
34.99
Softsoap refill, 1.65L
6.47
 3.78 (828 mL)
 N/A
2.50 (828mL)
5.99 (828mL)
Softsoap refill, 320 mL
 N/A
 3.79 (500 mL)
3.99
 1.00 (340mL)
 N/A
Softsoap pomegranate (250mL)
3.17
3.79
 N/A
2.50
4.99
Pantene Shampoo
4.96
5.49
5.79
4.96
7.99
Always Maxi, 24 pads, regular
3.88
4.19
 N/A
7.57 (36 pack)
5.99
Tampax, regular, 20 pack
3.88
5.49
 N/A
4.98 (18 pack)
5.99
Dove deodorant
3.79
4.29
4.49
3.48
4.99
Crest Complete
2.49
2.99
2.79
2.36
3.99
Dove Body Wash 354mL
 4.77
 5.49
 N/A
3.47
7.49
*N/A indicates the item was either not available at the store I studied or I was unable to finish my study of the store, as was the case with Foodland.

Analysis

My hypothesis going into this study was that Wal Mart would be the cheapest place to purchase personal hygiene items, and Shoppers Drug Mart the most expensive. 

The results generally followed this trend, but there are several important things to note. 

Bulk Shopping

No Frills and Wal Mart had very comparable prices in most areas, however at Wal Mart you are able to purchase items in bulk packs not available at No Frills. I found that many times the particular item I chose was the smallest size available at Wal Mart, and to buy more it was fractionally more expensive. This means that if you're buying for a family or just like to shop in bulk, you would do well shopping at Wal Mart. However if you only buy regular sizes of things, you're no better off shopping at No Frills instead. 

Diapers

Wal Mart was hands down the cheapest place to buy diapers, a Pampers Swaddlers 100 pack cost $5 less at Wal Mart than any of the other stores studied. If I had a baby this would be very important because its something you buy lots of and $5 cheaper a pack is a lot.

Sales

While Shoppers Drug Mart and Zehrs were on the more expensive side of things, they also had the most sales at the time of study. I found that at these stores, almost every product was either on sale or a similar one was. The sale price was usually comparable to the prices at Wal Mart or No Frills. I want to point out that while Shoppers was expensive, if you were to stock up on items while they are on sale and do that shopping at a time when there is a promotion going on for bonus optimum points, you could end up way ahead. They often offer a sale where if you spend $50 you get 20x the optimum points. Optimum points are given on certain items in varying amounts, but assume that we buy 5 things costing $10 each, and each gives us 100 optimum points. At a 20x the points event, you would get 10 000 points. 8000 points is redeemable for $8, so you would essentially save an additional $8 after any other savings. Shoppers also offers 20% off for seniors on Thursdays, this was something none of the other stores studied offered.

Brand Name vs. Store Brand

As previously stated, I didn't include store brand items in this study because they weren't available consistently. In every case where store brands were available, they were cheaper than their name brand counter parts. So greater savings could be had if you buy the store brand at each of the stores studied.

Transportation Costs

Something else I considered when studying these stores, is the distance to travel to it. I used my place as the starting point and using gas buddy calculated the cost to travel round-trip to each of the stores closest to me. I drive a small compact car and live close to many stores. This will make my transportation costs minimal. If you drive an SUV and live in the country, you'll be paying more in transportation than I am. These costs are calculated using the current price of gas at $1.282/ litre.

Wal Mart- $0.92 (9 kilometers)
No Frills- $0.83 (7 kilometers)
Shoppers Drug Mart- $0.83 (7 kilometers)
Zehrs- $0.70 (6 kilometers)

I didn't include Foodland because there isn't one near me. The reason I chose this store was because I went to it a lot for work. It is also the only choice for many people in small towns, so I wanted to include it for variety sake.

I live close to all of these stores and the cost to get to any of them stays roughly the same. So it doesn't cost me that much more to go to Wal Mart than No Frills. However, if I only visit one then the gas costs go down because I am only making one trip. So if I buy all my personal hygiene items at the grocery store when I do my regular weekly shopping, and don't make a separate trip to Wal Mart or Shoppers Drug Mart, I would save $0.83-$0.92. 

Try this website out for yourself and figure out how much it costs you to travel to the stores you frequent. Knowing how much it costs you in gas, will make you keep your savings in check. If you're paying $1.50 in gas to go somewhere specific to save $1.00, it's not worth it. If it's part of your regular shopping that you do every week, that is a bit different.

Conclusion

Overall the cheapest place to buy personal hygiene items was either Wal Mart or No Frills. The most expensive were Foodland and Shoppers Drug Mart. Zehrs was in the mid-price range. There were many factors to consider aside from raw numbers as each store offered different perks for shopping there. Wal Mart offered bulk savings great for families. No Frills offered consistently low prices. Foodland doesn't offer much, other than being the only grocery store available in many areas. Zehrs offered savings. Shoppers Drug Mart offered savings and a competitive rewards program. Transportation costs were also looked at, but will vary for every person so I recommend making you own calculations. 

I think that in the future I'm going to buy my personal hygiene items when doing my regular grocery shopping. I don't shop for a big family and therefore don't need to buy a large amount of items. It just isn't worth it for me to drive out of way to buy toilet paper and kleenex. The savings aren't that substantial to shop at a big box store to justify the increased gas costs. 

Doing this study has been great, because I now know when I shop at the grocery store I am getting the best deal.